In a northeast corner of Poland, the sky is milky white over soft, wet earth covered in places with sheathes of yellow and brown leaves. All around, a soft breeze murmurs, rising and falling to a wordless melody, as Jewish New Year arrives and I track how it feels to be here once again. I arrived six weeks ago, in late August, to attend the commemoration of the 75th anniversary of the liquidation of the Lodz ghetto – a week-long