My tenth journey to Poland began almost two weeks ago in Berlin, where I recovered from the long flight and visited some dear friends in nearby Hamburg. My host and caretaker in Berlin was a woman I’d met in August, 2014 at the 70th anniversary of the liquidation of the Lodz Ghetto. Also a writer, Sabine had carved six months out of her life to live in Lodz, absorbing its history and studying Polish—mirroring the journey I’d taken in 2009,